Xing Qing Park

I mentioned earlier, we have a beautiful park, across from the University.  About a week ago, Dave and I spent about 2 hours exploring it.  I’m not sure there is an equivalent in the US.

It is filled with families, children, and always groups of older people who have gathered, presumably to talk about earlier days.  There is a lot of music.  Groups of 20 or more people blast romantic Chinese music, or hip hop-ish type tunes or pieces that sound like they come straight out of period Chinese dramas.  And the groups of people dance to the music.  The dance is extremely intricate – complicated ballroom dancing, elaborate step-dancing, not un-like Irish step dancing.  Another common site is a group of older folks with ancient musical instruments.  Sort of a viola that you balance on your knee.  Sort of an oboe/trumpet that you blow through.  Sometimes a windy flute-like instrument.  Always a block of wood to keep time.  Sometimes a karaoke machine, with an older woman singing reedy tunes, complete with hand-gestures, signifying wind, rain, mountains – perhaps.  It really feels like a communal space.

Xing Qing Gong Yuan, or “Shing Ching Park” was part of the palace grounds during the Tang dynasty, which lasted from 618AD to 907AD.  To understand Xi’an, you have to understand the Tang dynasty.  Xi’an was the capital. Back then it was called Chang’an, or “Long Peace.”  The Tang dynasty was, for the Chinese, a golden age.  The Silk Road flourished and opened up the gradually consolidating country of China to Central Asia.  It was chic to wear south-east Asian clothes; intermarriage between was encouraged.  Tang art and poetry is central to contemporary Chinese culture.  The dynasty set the early standards for legal code for the region.

Flowers and greenery

At its height, Xi’an (Chang’an) was a dazzling amalgamation of different cultures from as far away as Persia (Iran/Iraq).  There was a special quarter of the city called the Muslim Quarter that exist till today, with amazing Middle-Eastern type food –meat skewers, pita bread, etc.  The central religion was Buddhism.  But other religions germinated as well – Islam, Nestorian Christianity, Manichaeism, Zoroastrianism, and Judaism.  (I’m getting a lot of this from my Lonely Planet guide)

Pretty View

Meandering pond like river

The park, we’re told, on a sign when we enter, is 53hhectares. (What is that?  Our apartment currently has no internet, so someone reading this will have to tell us.)  Suffice it to say it is big.  The palace was built and used between 713 and 756AD.   It was basically the place where state feasts took place, as well as probably some state affairs.  The current park was restored in 1958.

Park Map

When you enter, there is a gate, and always the ubiquitous red lanterns, a wide da jie (avenue) that leads to the lake – with various paths leading in a number of meandering directions.

The left leads to a very cute kiddie playground, where two little kids were playing in a cement pool of water.

To the right is a rather incongruous amusement park.  Instead of the Tang – east-meets-west --  this is more antique-meets-tacky. 

An accident waiting to happen

Bumper Boats!

Actually throughout the park, you get an odd clash between very old and very modern, whether it is the apartment and office buildings surrounding the park, guarding the old pagoda or palace, or the plastic bug-boats that frame the Hibiscus Island and Chen Xiang Pavilion.

Bug Boats guard the pagoda

Throughout the park there are little booths where kids can pick a stone statue and paint it:  Homage to the old Tang Sculptors?

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