Fa Men Si: Giant Buddhist Temple

New Temple

Old Temple

We have been  on break for National Holiday.  A new friend took us to Western Shaanxi province to see his hometown Biaoji and a large Buddhist temple called Fa Men Si.  I think the thing that I wasn’t prepared for was how curious everyone is to get to know an American.  We meet friends through friends, and then those friends want to take us out.  Suddenly we’re having three Chinese banquets in a row.

When we visit sites outside of the big cities (like Xi’an), the generosity is compounded.  People want us on their WeChat feed (sort of like Facebook).  Random people want us to be in their family pictures.  They want to give us gifts or water.  Most think that we’re Russian.  When they find out that we are American, they want to film their kids speaking English to us, or sing us an American Song that they learned.  There is a video out there somewhere of Dave and me, and two cute kids singing “You are my Sunshine,” complete with hand gestures.

I don’t know how much longer this will last, but my advice to our government (or what is left of it) is:  don’t piss them off.  The people we’ve met really like America and Americans.  They look up to us, want to speak our language, are shocked/pleased/delighted by any effort we make to speak Chinese.  Use this "cred" wisely.  We stand to gain nothing by losing this spontaneous friendship from a country of 1 billion-plus people.

*            *            *

So, what did we see in Western Shaanxi Province?   First and foremost, was this major Buddhist temple, Fa Men Si.   It again is a product of the silk road.  Back in the Ming Dynasty (1300-1400) – possibly earlier – one of the traders brought one of the finger bones of the Buddha as a relic for trading.  The Emperor snatched it up and built a pagoda, under which he loaded the cellar with jewels and treasures.  He also created 3 other “shadow bones” of the Buddha – ones that were created to look just like the real thing.  He then put all 4 in different ornate caskets.  The one with the true finger bone was the most plain.  (Shakespeare’s “Merchant of Venice” meet the Ming emperor!)  That way, if the place was looted, the thieves might just take the fake bones, and not the real one.  Every 30 years, the jewels and caskets were brought over the 120 mile path from Biaoji to Xi’an for worship.

 

Gradually, as the Empire faced wars and rebellions (a major theme in Chinese history), the pagoda fell into disrepair, and the treasure was forgotten or lost.

Fast forward to 1978-ish, when the government undertakes large urban renewal projects.  (Incidentally, this is also when the Terracotta warriors were discovered.)  The government workers are digging around the pagoda’s site, and voila!  They find the underground cellar, the caskets, the finger bones-- both shadow and genuine -- the treasure, the whole kitten-caboodle!

The Chinese Government realizes that it is sitting on a potential tourist goldmine.  BUT, they don’t really want to encourage a new group of religious fanatics to make pilgrimages to this outpost.  Big dilemma:  What to do?

Friends before the Impressive Gate
built in the 1980s

The decision is a bit convoluted.  They build an amazing new complex – that is almost creepy in its over-the-top design.   Call it a "shadow-temple" maybe.  It's not the real one, but it looks a lot more impressive!   It has lots of cameras and security.  

They move the “real” finger bone there. They allow worship of the Buddha’s finger only during national holidays.  When it isn’t a national holiday, the shrine isn’t a shrine, but a cultural monument.  They leave the pagoda (which is actually way cooler than the new site) as it is and decree it a cultural monument, but not a religious shrine.

We were there during National Holiday, and the enthusiasm and religious fervor was very present.  People full-prostrating themselves before the finger bone.  Incense being hawked on the grounds to offer to the Buddha.  And of course security personnel and cameras taking note.  There were also several signs about Falong Gang (Not sure of the spelling, and not willing to google it with my phone), the religious group that we frequently see protesting the Chinese embassies in the US.   The signs around the grounds make it clear that, according to the government, the belief system of the Falong is not Buddhist nor to be trusted.  They are a false prophet, per the many signs warning those visiting the temple.

I came away recognizing the continued vexed relationship between religion and the government here.  I also came away realizing that the vexed relationship doesn’t really extend to all of the people.  Many are quite religious, even if it is frowned on.

A couple codas to the story:

Coda #1: We finished the tour with our English speaking guide. She confessed that we were the first Americans she had ever met and asked to be our WeChat friend.  Her English was very good.

Coda #2:  She showed us pictures of the actual finger bone of the Buddha up close.  They were doing work on it, a few years ago, and, as a guide, she was given pictures.   Dave confessed it looked nothing like a finger bone he’d ever seen. It looked more like what a merchant might think a finger-bone might look like if he were trying to pull one over on a Chinese emperor.

Coda #3:  We finished and all went to a Chinese banquet.

Antiseptic plaza with a pop singer
 at the opening to the temple

New (Shadow) Temple

Dave with tour guide in new complex

Statues representing the sins of modern life

Statues learning from the Buddha

 

Very Religious people before the new temple
where the original finger bone is housed

The "real" finger bone

Fierce Guard of the Buddha statue in the new complex
(complete with cameras)

Original  Ming Temple 

Fake ("shadow") finger bone 

Shops blaring Indian music and selling stuff
leading to the original temple

Ornate walls leading to the original temple

Cute kids sitting on the turtle that
 symbolizes "long life"

Original Pagoda

Original temple complex

Old Complex

Outer Casket for the Original Finger bone

Inner casket for the original finger bone

Fake finger bone  inner casket

National Holiday crowds

 

Our hosts